Bearings are small, but they decide almost everything about how a skateboard feels underfoot. When they wear out, a board that used to roll for blocks starts dying after a few pushes, and no amount of cleaning or oiling fixes bearings that are actually worn or rusted through. Replacing them is one of the cheapest, most effective upgrades you can make to a setup, and it takes less time than most riders expect. This guide covers how to tell your bearings are done, what to buy, and the full process for swapping them out cleanly.
How to Tell Your Bearings Need Replacing
Bearings rarely fail all at once. Watch for these signs:
- A grinding or crunching feel when you spin the wheel by hand, even after cleaning.
- Noticeably shorter rolls compared to how the board used to coast.
- Visible rust on the shields or races, usually from riding in wet conditions without drying the bearings afterward.
- A wheel that does not spin freely or stutters instead of winding down smoothly.
- A rattling sound that suggests a ball bearing or shield has come loose inside the housing.
If the bearings spin fine but just sound dry or gritty, try lubricating your skateboard bearings or giving them a proper clean first, since our guide on cleaning skateboard wheels covers the bearing seat too. Replacement is for bearings that are actually damaged, not just dirty.
What You Will Need
- A new set of eight bearings (skateboards use two per wheel)
- A skate tool or 9/16-inch socket wrench
- A flathead screwdriver or a bearing puller (optional but helpful)
- A rag for wiping down axles and wheel cores
If you are unsure what to buy, check the ABEC or manufacturer rating on your current set before shopping. Our skateboard bearings ABEC rating guide explains what those numbers actually mean for real-world riding, since a higher rating does not always translate to a noticeably faster board.
How to Replace Skateboard Bearings Step by Step
1. Remove the wheels
Flip the board over and use your skate tool to remove the axle nut from each wheel, sliding the wheels off the trucks. Keep track of the speed rings and washers as you go. If you want the full breakdown of taking a board apart, see our guide on how to disassemble a skateboard.
2. Pop out the old bearings
With the wheel off the truck, place the axle back through the bearing and lever it sideways to pop the first bearing partway out, then pull it free by hand. For the bearing on the other side, flip the wheel and use the axle again, or use the built-in bearing puller on many skate tools. If a bearing feels stuck, a flathead screwdriver braced against the wheel’s inner lip can gently pry it loose.
3. Clean the wheel core
Before fitting new bearings, wipe out the inside of the wheel where the old bearing sat. Hair, dust and old lubricant residue often build up here, and pressing a new bearing into a dirty seat can stop it from sitting flush.
4. Remove the spacer and check it
Most wheels have a small metal spacer that sits between the two bearings inside the wheel core, keeping them the correct distance apart so the axle nut does not crush them. Check that it is not bent or corroded. If you cannot find yours or it looks damaged, a cheap replacement spacer set is worth adding to your order.
5. Press the new bearings in
Set a new bearing squarely on top of the wheel core, shield side up. Place the axle through the bearing and press down evenly with your body weight, or place the wheel on the axle and thread the nut on partway to draw the bearing in evenly. Going slowly and keeping the bearing level as it seats prevents it from going in crooked, which is the most common reason a new bearing feels rough right out of the box.
6. Insert the spacer and the second bearing
Drop the spacer into the wheel core so it rests against the bearing you just installed, then press the second bearing in from the other side using the same method. The spacer should end up sandwiched between the two bearings once both are seated.
7. Reassemble the wheels
Slide each wheel back onto its axle with the speed ring in place, then thread the axle nut back on. Tighten until snug against the washer, then back the nut off slightly until the wheel spins freely without side-to-side play. A wheel that will not spin after reassembly almost always means the axle nut is too tight or a bearing went in at an angle.
8. Spin-test each wheel
Give every wheel a firm flick by hand. A properly seated new bearing should spin smoothly for several seconds with a light, even hum and no grinding or catching. If one wheel spins noticeably shorter than the others, pull it back off and check that the bearing sat flush and the spacer is positioned correctly.
How Long Do Skateboard Bearings Last?
With regular cleaning and light lubrication, a decent set of bearings typically lasts six months to a year of normal riding. Skating in wet or gritty conditions without cleaning up afterward can cut that down to a matter of weeks, since moisture rusts the races quickly. If you are replacing bearings more than once or twice a year, it is worth checking how to maintain your skateboard overall, since dirty wheels and loose trucks both accelerate bearing wear.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Pressing bearings in unevenly: A crooked bearing binds and will never spin as freely as one seated flush, even if it is brand new.
- Skipping the spacer: Without it, tightening the axle nut can crush the outer races of both bearings, killing performance immediately.
- Over-tightening the axle nut: This is the single most common reason a freshly replaced wheel feels sluggish. Always back the nut off until the wheel spins freely.
- Mixing old and new bearings on one wheel: Replace both bearings in a wheel at the same time so wear is even on both sides.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to replace all eight bearings at once?
It is not strictly required, but it keeps performance even across all four wheels. If only one or two bearings are damaged, you can replace just those, though many riders prefer to change the full set so nothing rolls unevenly.
Can I reuse bearings after removing them?
Yes, if they still spin smoothly and show no rust or grinding, you can clean and re-lubricate them for continued use. Bearings only need replacing once they are actually worn, damaged or rusted, not simply because they were removed.
Why is my new bearing not spinning smoothly?
This almost always means it was pressed in at an angle or the axle nut is too tight. Pop it back out, check that the wheel core is clean, and press it back in slowly and evenly before retightening.
What ABEC rating should I buy?
Most street and park skaters do fine with ABEC 5 or ABEC 7 bearings. Higher ratings measure manufacturing tolerance, not real-world skate speed, so there is little practical benefit in going higher for typical riding.
Do ceramic bearings need to be replaced less often?
Ceramic bearings resist rust better than steel and often last longer if you skate in damp conditions, but they still wear out eventually and follow the same replacement process described above.
